Friday, October 9, 2009
SHANGHAI TANG's IMPERIAL TAILORING
CHINA’s FIRST LUXURY BRAND TO HOLD TRUNK SHOW
This from our inbox:
“Shanghai Tang’s Imperial Tailoring service preserves what many thought would become a lost cultural tradition: the art of Shanghainese tailoring that resulted in the creation of the qi pao in the early 1900s, the dress that would come to epitomize Chinese fashion. Once the Cultural Revolution swept China, Shanghainese tailors rapidly lost out to mass producers of the Mao suits and the ranks of officially trained tailors skilled in this heritage craft shrank dramatically.
Today, Shanghai Tang employs most of the descendents of these original tailors. The Imperial Tailoring service has evolved to meet the needs of a global customer by marrying eastern expertise with modern silhouettes and European fabrics – putting the brand’s unique spin on the bespoke and couture tradition.
Shanghai Tang will be holding an Imperial Tailoring trunk show at their New York flagship on October 15-18.”
THE ADDRESS: 600 Madison Avenue, NYC 212 888 0111
INFO: SHANGHAI TANG
SACHIN & BABI For ANKASA SPRING/SUMMER 2010
Words, Images Judith Ecochard
EMBRACING "THE ART OF OUR HERITAGE” IN A RTW COLLECTION
A presentation in a gallery space downtown Manhattan was a great way to discover a label that’s new to us: SACHIN AND BABI for ANKASA.
Ornate, but in a good “western” way ---meaning done as highlights-- in edgy, easy to wear hip silhouettes--- were the takeaways for us---of these well done separates for modern gals.
The deft way with intricate beading and sequins makes sense as this married couple has been in the business for fifteen years, doing complicated embroideries for other contemporary and top designer RTW labels…in their own factory in India.
“We know what we’re doing,” Babi informed us.
And we concur, as the fabric manipulations of knits, silks, jersey etc and details of sequin overlays and embroideries- are astounding.
A lot of handwork is involved…yet the collection is priced well…comparable to a Catherine Maladrino or DVF’s collection. (Mostly $190-topped out at $$665 for a knockout silk long sleeve top with gauze sleeves and allover crystal and bugle bead embroidery).
BACKSTORY: The duo, Sachin and Babi Ahluwalia met at FIT. Ankasa is the name of their home décor collection…that is available for sale at their store:
135 East 65th Street
New York, NY 10021
212.861.6800
and at stores like Calypso St-Barths
INFO: ANKASA
Labels:
Fashion,
New York Fashion Week Spring 2010
GASPAR GLOVES by Dorothy Gaspar
Words, Images Judith Ecochard
Lately, we’ve been noticing that Gaspar Gloves has been getting a lot of print editorial and movie credits…
And of course major ink for Michael Jackson's white glove covered in sparkling Swarovski crystals...
At their presentation in September, there was ample opportunity to see why this company has earned approving nods from the fashion community and stylists.
Long leather gloves, and frilly evening finery are made from the finest materials…including buttery napa, exotic skins, delicate nettings, embellishments-- like turquoise stones and metal grommets, and silk.
Cashmere lined gloves are warm and comfy…and fit…well like a glove.
The high quality is obvious… and Dorothy Gaspar is the third generation leading light of this full service glove company---that was started by her grandfather in Budapest, Hungary.
NEW:
The TouchTec® line of gloves is aimed for the plugged in crowd…in that one can use their iPhone touch screen with this line of hand coverings.
INFO: GASPAR GLOVES
NORMAN AMBROSE SPRING 2010 COLLECTION
ST REGIS HOTEL, Fifth Avenue/52nd Street NYC
“IMPECCABLY TAILORED. HAND-FINISHED, SOPHISTICATED, SOIGNE.”
Words, Judith Ecochard
Images J. Ecochard and courtesy of Richard Spiegel/The Fashion Tribune
It was delightful, really, to start New York’s Fashion Week in the stately St. Regis Hotel.
What was also truly wonderful was the designer Norman Ambrose who more than most designers we have ever seen, period…”harkens back to the Mid-century American and European Masters of made-to-measure.”
The young designer takes a page from Bill Blass in that he knows his customer…a woman who dresses elegantly, always appropriately, but who doesn’t want to look like she stepped out of a time capsule.
Labor intensive flourishes like turned hand stitched hems, hand beading-as in a glam evening gown that takes six weeks to make, silk linings, and detailed inner construction--- are givens.
Interestingly, Ambrose---who has been in business about 2 ½ years, told us that he goes to the Metropolitan Museum of Art and studies the Costume Institute’s archives “to learn from them…and to buy vintage and learn from the masters.”
For Spring 2010, modern beautiful clothes like the “to Catch A Thief” gown with a long white scarf, a deep cowl back gown, and a great day suits- are top looks. Versatility is apparent in a ‘simple’ dress that can be belted or not…with a wide hem giving just amount of weight to the jersey fabric.
More casual garments like a basic tee ($475) is stylish in a French Sailor mode…and should please Ambrose’s clientele who live the Palm Beach kind of life.
Made to measure and private custom orders are popular options for many of Ambrose’s customers, especially full sized women…and working female executives.
Neiman Marcus also carries the collection that typically ranges in price from $2500-$5000.
INFO, Lookbook and Designer Contact: NORMAN AMBROSE
Labels:
Fashion,
New York Fashion Week Spring 2010
MADISON HARDING KICKERS FOR FALL
Siouxsie $355
This in our inbox...
Creators and designers, Hilary Rosenman and Barri Budin source the ladies of Rock n' Roll for Madison Harding's shoes and booties...
Joan $320, Cyndi $355
INFO: MADISON HARDING
Thursday, October 8, 2009
JOHN LOBB: SPRING/SUMMER 2010
READY TO WEAR and BESPOKE MEN’S SHOES “NOT ABOUT FASHION BUT ABOUT LIFESTYLE”
Words Judith Ecochard,
Images courtesy of John Lobb and J. Ecochard
The life story of a John Lobb shoe - is always a jaw dropper for us.
FOR EXAMPLE:
With top quality leather linings- assuring a glove like fit, hand applied polish that takes days to get just right, single or double soles of leather that are plied together via a ‘sunk by stones, soaked in water’ process, not slapped up with glue, the finest skins- from exclusive sources (like the naturally aged Australian salt water alligator that yields a thick last forever ped covering) , and boar fur threads- hand stitched (“because a real needle would blemish the shoe”) …
John Lobb epitomizes the best of the best.
Winchester
Keeping up with the demand for John Lobb shoes--- is a problem---given the need for a very skilled labor force, let alone top-notch materials.
For Spring /Summer 2010, John Lobb has both casual and more formal shoes for men---all modern classics.
New this year, are more selections comprised of the suave pairings of materials---linen/suede, linen/leather, and leather/suede.
Our favorite look is the Kipling-in a white misty calf/khaki suede loafer that has a water jet applied, design that is cleverly embedded, so to speak, in the shoe.
Another winning use of different textures is a dapper, refreshed City III shoe===here made of khaki calf and linen.
Travel/Home slip-ons created from super soft suede or leather offer unlined, finely stitched casual elegance…that’s lightweight--- ideal for packing, but still sturdy enough to wear anywhere-- because of the leather soles.
No surprise…John Lobb has expanded its line of sandals…in calf leather, croc, and calf leather/linen options. This really is the way European men shod their feet in warmer climes…pair with crisp jeans or denim and white cotton shirts.
Popular styles, like the double buckled timeless Chapel shoes, MADE FROM A SINGLE PIECE OF LEATHER, with no backstitching…are available year round. The ultimate---the bespoke pair pictured atop.
FYI:
In our review of Fall 2009, we wrote up John Lobb’s heralded move to new headquarters/salon in Paris at 32 Rue de Magador.
Conveniently, there are now online options that allow for the personal service that the captains of industry and entertainment demand and expect from arguably, one of the true luxury brands left.
SKYPE IT™:
Customers can arrange to Skype™ their personal (or new) salesperson as part of the new “At Your Service” wardrobe experience. Have a swatch of Prince of Wales suiting clamoring for the perfect kicker? Just show a sales associate the fabric via webcam, and a successful partnership is born.
For customers who cannot get to the John Lobb boutiques, this is an innovative way to tap the expertise of John Lobb employees.
Also available in the USA...an E-commerce site..
Of course, the bespoke service is the ultimate way to envelope one’s foot. New for us, was learning that it takes nearly a year for a custom crafted pair of shoes to be made because the process rivals any couture service.
For example, customers’ peds aren’t scanned, but carefully measured, and then recreated, really sculpted, by hand in wood.
Another tidbits learned…the “try-on” pair, or trial shoe is marked up then destroyed.
Even the ready to wear collections, made in Northern England, made from existing lasts, require the same number of steps in the production process as the bespoke Parisian born brethren.
ACCESSORIES: Briefcases and belts, billfolds and a plush shoe care ‘kit’ in a stunning box/ case made from Macassar ebony. Indian rosewood, walnut burl or Amboina burl---are the ultimate gifts to give or to keep.
INFO: JOHN LOBB
Wednesday, October 7, 2009
LACOSTE THINKS PINK
We got this in our inbox yesterday...
"Buy a croc. Give a croc. LACOSTE, known worldwide for its crocodile embroidered logo, has partnered again with The Breast Cancer Research Foundation® to find the cure for breast cancer. LACOSTE will donate 10% of proceeds from this beach themed pink collection to BCRF during the entire month of October. Women aren’t the only ones thinking pink. A casual, yet fashionable, men’s washed polo with oversized croc logo completes the assortment.
The collection will be available at LACOSTE boutiques and LACOSTE.com beginning October 1, 2009. LACOSTE is dedicated to increasing breast cancer awareness and raising funds for research into its cause, prevention and cure through feel-good shopping.
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